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Offline Paul_Smith

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Re: 2015 model headlight bulb replacement
« Reply #10 on: January 07, 2018, 09:18:21 PM »
*Originally Posted by mstrs [+]
Great information. Thank you.
Hmmmm. Sounds easier to just remove the fairing/s.  :33: :019:
ps. I had to do a bulb on my 2009 Zed. Had to undo all sorts of stuff (not remove - just loosen to move aside) and then it was still very similar to your description. Took me ages.
At the side of a road on a dark wet night? I don't think so. Last time I tried it took only five minutes, one thumbnail and no tools. Last time I took the fairings off took 20 minutes and a well lit workshop with plenty of tools.

Offline Crosshairs

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Re: 2015 model headlight bulb replacement
« Reply #11 on: January 07, 2018, 09:44:32 PM »
Paul is right..its not that hard ...just stick your hand in there and do it.

Offline mstrs

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Re: 2015 model headlight bulb replacement
« Reply #12 on: January 13, 2018, 08:15:43 AM »
Well...after removing the high beam bulb (using the 'reach up and fiddle to remove' technique) to confirm they are H7s etc, I duly purchased a pair of 130% Narva bulbs.
The "reach up and fiddle to refit" technique worked on the high beam...but the low beam... :33: :157: :173:
After some time, and all available fingers now bruised and painful, that damned clip just wouldn't. Did it fine with the bulb out (can see the hook etc) but no go otherwise. So resorted to the "total fairing removal so everything is easy to see/work" technique.
Fiddly - but successful.

Offline Paul_Smith

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Re: 2015 model headlight bulb replacement
« Reply #13 on: January 22, 2018, 10:19:51 AM »
*Originally Posted by mstrs [+]
Well...after removing the high beam bulb (using the 'reach up and fiddle to remove' technique) to confirm they are H7s etc, I duly purchased a pair of 130% Narva bulbs.
The "reach up and fiddle to refit" technique worked on the high beam...but the low beam... :33: :157: :173:
After some time, and all available fingers now bruised and painful, that damned clip just wouldn't. Did it fine with the bulb out (can see the hook etc) but no go otherwise. So resorted to the "total fairing removal so everything is easy to see/work" technique.
Fiddly - but successful.
Be careful with those new bulbs, to burn brighter they have to burn hotter, so they don't last as long. The increased current draw also puts more strain on the wiring loom unless you have them switched via relay. Consider changing over to LEDs if you want brighter bulbs with longer life and lower draw.

Offline mstrs

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Re: 2015 model headlight bulb replacement
« Reply #14 on: January 22, 2018, 10:37:04 AM »
*Originally Posted by Paul_Smith [+]
Be careful with those new bulbs, to burn brighter they have to burn hotter, so they don't last as long. The increased current draw also puts more strain on the wiring loom unless you have them switched via relay. Consider changing over to LEDs if you want brighter bulbs with longer life and lower draw.
Now you tell me!!
Actually, a pair of 110% Narva bulbs went into my Z1000 3 years and 48,000kms ago. Still going fine when the Zed went to a new home...

Offline TYKE

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Re: 2015 model headlight bulb replacement
« Reply #15 on: January 22, 2018, 11:41:48 AM »
I read somewhere ( a while ago) that these hotter burning bulbs could damage or distort plastic headlight covers,  maybe true/maybe not  :notsure:   
You preach what you need to hear

Roger (Rog)

Offline TowerMan

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Re: 2015 model headlight bulb replacement
« Reply #16 on: January 22, 2018, 08:04:19 PM »
These +30% or 130% bulbs don't actually take more than the permitted 55W of E-code automotive 12V headlamp bulbs regulations.

All they do, is that they have a tighter designed wound filament that converts the 55W more efficiently into a greater light intensity / lumen output.

Unfortunately these more +% efficient car design bulbs have a shorter lifespan / are more brittle / not suited for motorcycles high vibration situations - unless otherwise stated.

Richard  :001:
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Offline TYKE

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Re: 2015 model headlight bulb replacement
« Reply #17 on: January 22, 2018, 08:24:00 PM »
Once again TM provides a great explanation. ...top man   :020:   
You preach what you need to hear

Roger (Rog)

Offline Oldplodder

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Re: 2015 model headlight bulb replacement
« Reply #18 on: January 22, 2018, 08:53:00 PM »
*Originally Posted by TowerMan [+]
Unfortunately these more +% efficient car design bulbs have a shorter lifespan / are more brittle / not suited for motorcycles high vibration situations - unless otherwise stated.

Richard  :001:

Richard,
As VIGS, are you able to point out any bulbs that do qualify as suitable for motorcycles while being +% efficient?

Dave T
Lord, Please make me into the person my dog thinks I am.

Offline TowerMan

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Re: 2015 model headlight bulb replacement
« Reply #19 on: January 22, 2018, 10:25:28 PM »
*Originally Posted by Oldplodder [+]
Richard,
As VIGS, are you able to point out any bulbs that do qualify as suitable for motorcycles while being +% efficient?

Dave T
Dave

Previously I have always recommend getting the Osram 65W H7 bulb from their "Off Road" range as below.
UNFORTUNATELY, these have been discontinued and are becoming like Hens Teeth / Rocking Horse Sh1t  :157:
BUT, I do have a stock of them for my own use  :7:

*Originally Posted by TowerMan [+]
If you want the brightest and most reliable (long lasting) H7 bulbs go for the H7 65w Osram 64217-01B bulb, (bigger and more robust H9 burner on standard H7 base) from their high-wattage rally and professional offroad bulb line, which is designed for high vibration environments.

I have now been running a set of these for over 6 years / +28,000 miles now - with no problems or failures at all. :028:

They offer 2100 lumen (brightness) and a long 500 hour life, compared to:

1780 lumen, 340 hours  - for the Osram Night Breaker.
1750 lumen, 350 hours  - for the Osram Silverstar (not Sylvania).
1620 lumen, 200 hours  - for Philips X-treme Power H7...

(A standard H7 55w is only 1500 lumen, but lasts for 500 hours)



Richard  :2:

PS - Important note:
Motorcycle bulbs tend to be designed for harsh / high vibration environments.
Higher output car bulbs will possibly fail early as they are less vibration resistant and have already been overstress trying to emit more light.

Until I find a suitable replacement, the best advice I can give anyone is to "fit an addon headlight relay kit", which will ensure that the bulb gets the proper / full rated output voltage of 13.2V, rather than 11V to 12V due to the the weedy OEM wires / volt drop.

Richard  :001:
« Last Edit: January 22, 2018, 10:32:06 PM by TowerMan »
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