Valve clearance figures at low side....

[brico]

My 2012 Versys 1000 is at 40000km/25000miles. I do not know if valves were adjusted previously. I doubt it.

I've now done the valve clearance checks and here are the figures

Exhaust - Range 0.220-0.310mm
Cylinder #1 = 0.178mm / 0.178mm
Cylinder #2 = 0.178mm / 0.178mm
Cylinder #3 = 0.178mm / 0.203mm
Cylinder #4 = 0.203mm / 0.178mm

Intake  - Range 0.150 - 0.240mm
Cylinder #1 = 0.178mm / 0.203mm
Cylinder #2 = 0.178mm / 0.127mm
Cylinder #3 = 0.127mm / 0.127mm
Cylinder #4 = 0.178mm / 0.152mm

All of the exhaust valves and three of the intake valves are below the acceptable clearance.

I was actually expecting the clearance to be on the higher side if it is outside the range due to wear and thinning out of the shims and valve lifters. 

How bad is this and does it require adjustment or only monitoring? 

[Peter629]

You need to get them back in spec. It is not uncommon for them to tighten up

[Keener]

 

[Topbox]

Originally Posted by Peter629

You need to get them back in spec. It is not uncommon for them to tighten up

Agree

[Vern]

Pretty similar to the readings I discovered on my Versys.

I put them back to the recommendations listed.

As a mechanic friend said a 'slappy' cam is a happy cam.
In other words you can hear ticking on cold starts from the top of the engine, once the metals expand with heat all becomes quiet.

Vern

[Crosshairs]

Originally Posted by Vern

Pretty similar to the readings I discovered on my Versys.

I put them back to the recommendations listed.

As a mechanic friend said a 'slappy' cam is a happy cam.
In other words you can hear ticking on cold starts from the top of the engine, once the metals expand with heat all becomes quiet.

Vern

Your mechanic friend is an idiot....A "slappy"  cam is one that is beating the crap out  of the cam lobes and valve buckets ... set them to spec and they will be quiet and still have plenty of room to contract and expand with temperature.

[Vern]

Sure  did you take this comment a little too literal 

I will pass on your reply to Mike, he will find it very funny thanks. 

Vern

[Crosshairs]

Originally Posted by Vern

Sure  did you take this comment a little too literal 

I will pass on your reply to Mike, he will find it very funny thanks. 

Vern

 I took it as written...if you can  hear ticking on cold starts from the top of the engine, , its  out of spec.

[Vern]

Off topic, but in reply Mike is a great guy.

He is an ex-sidecar racer so a wave short of a shipwreck, and for decades his business has been rebuilding bike engines for club racers. It's fascinating to see his attention to detail. His workshop is huge and each engine has a dedication work station.

Mike always has time for customers or hobbyist mechanics like me. 

I asked him the question raised in this topic when I found that a number of clearances on my Versys valves were on the wrong side of minimum spec. His response was for road riding and durability to aim for the clearances being reset closer to the maximum recommended rather than aiming for setting them just within tolerance. Hence his comment a slappy cam is a happy cam.

Mike likes to talk, a lot. So he went on to explain how he has to use high quality mearsuring tools to ensure that when he completes a valve clearance for a club racer that the gap is at the absolute minimum clearance allowed to claw every ounce of power from a 600cc engine. 

Vern

[JEF.FREE.Ryder]

Hello

 I had Kawasaki do my valves. About the same KM  as your bike.

They where all a little on the tight side / minimum clearance or just less.
 They made it all within specs.  Coolant flush new spark plugs.   

Just do it. Replace shims as needed.   You already went this far to measure them. 
Be  Worry free. For awhile.

A old bike mechanic. Once told me on my previous Yamaha.   I’ll need them done twice around 40k km. And again around 90k.    After that the motor is completely worn/ settled.    Don’t touch them again until it’s time for a engine rebuilds.   Does this sound accurate?