Author Topic: checking throttle bodies Sync with or without the Air box on?  (Read 621 times)

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Offline kris

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ok, i did the Vacuum sync on my V1000.  I used a great digital tool that makes it all so much easier: The Digi Sync | Digital Throttle Body Sync Tool/. I got it it via Amazon.  https://www.amazon.com/6-CHANNEL-Digital-Throttle-Peaking-Manometer/dp/B086PC4Y2S?th=1

the problem that I encountered was that all the lines connecting to the throttle bodies were fried. you  just cannot take them off.  there is a long line with 4 other lines that go to the throttle bodies's nipples.  they could not be taken out, because of getting overheated and glued to the nipples.  so I took them out with force and cleaned the nipples from the rubber sticking to it.  Anyway, i don't need that stuff.  I capped each nipple separately with small rubber plugs.

the sync was not perfect so some adjustment was needed.  but my mechanic (former Kawa employer) told me that it does not matter if the air box is on or off; it does not affect the reading.  I read from some Yamaha forums, that their manual suggest do to the sync with the air box off.  Kawa manual says, put the air box on.  What is right?

I personally think that it is ok to do the Vacuum sync without the air box on, but i am open to other suggestions.  In 650 forum, someone wrote 'we here do it with air box on'.  what does it mean?  the fact that a bunch of guys agree to do the same thing, because they are blindly following the manual, does not make it right.
Last Edit: May 08, 2021, 04:34:42 PM by kris

Offline uralrob

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 I do mine with the airbox off, but be sure that the air flow sensor is plugged in or it will throw a code and turn on the Check Engine symbol.

 Rob.

Offline kris

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you just hit a nail.  because the vacuum lines were so difficult to remove, me and my friend mechanic had to pull the throttle bodies out.  and then, he forgot to connect one plug while starting the engine, and the dashboard got all crazy :). So I had to put the fuel tank back on the bike without the air box, drive to the nearby Kawasaki showroom, and plug the bike to their laptop in order to cancel the error codes.  it took just 5 min, but if there was no dealer next door, I would be in a real trouble!

Offline markymark11

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On the MK 2 - I just remove the neg to the battery, unplug the air sensor, remove the airbox, plug in the hoses, and then re-connect the sensor then the battery negative. I balance without the airbox on, which also makes it so much easier to get to the adjusting screws.

Reverse the procedure to re-fit - remove the negative before disconnecting / refitting the sensor that way there is no error code. I do mine at 1200 rpm tickover, balanced to number 1 cylinder (I seem to remember mine settled at about 26 cmhg) and it runs smooth as silk.  :002:

Offline kris

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*Originally Posted by markymark11 [+]
On the MK 2 - I just remove the neg to the battery, unplug the air sensor, remove the airbox, plug in the hoses, and then re-connect the sensor then the battery negative. I balance without the airbox on, which also makes it so much easier to get to the adjusting screws.

Reverse the procedure to re-fit - remove the negative before disconnecting / refitting the sensor that way there is no error code. I do mine at 1200 rpm tickover, balanced to number 1 cylinder (I seem to remember mine settled at about 26 cmhg) and it runs smooth as silk.  :002:

with my digital tool, I tuned all the cylinders to 150 number.  One unit is 2.86766002 mmhg, so it translates into 43 cmhg.  I had similar reading in my Versys 650.  I wonder why the difference.  in the factory manual it is said that the vacuum should be 40.7cmhg.  But in the instructions that come with the digital tool they say not to care about the number, but more that all the cylinders are in sync.

Offline Nceb

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*Originally Posted by kris [+]
ok, i did the Vacuum sync on my V1000.  I used a great digital tool that makes it all so much easier: The Digi Sync | Digital Throttle Body Sync Tool/. I got it it via Amazon.  https://www.amazon.com/6-CHANNEL-Digital-Throttle-Peaking-Manometer/dp/B086PC4Y2S?th=1

the problem that I encountered was that all the lines connecting to the throttle bodies were fried. you  just cannot take them off.  there is a long line with 4 other lines that go to the throttle bodies's nipples.  they could not be taken out, because of getting overheated and glued to the nipples.  so I took them out with force and cleaned the nipples from the rubber sticking to it.  Anyway, i don't need that stuff.  I capped each nipple separately with small rubber plugs.

the sync was not perfect so some adjustment was needed.  but my mechanic (former Kawa employer) told me that it does not matter if the air box is on or off; it does not affect the reading.  I read from some Yamaha forums, that their manual suggest do to the sync with the air box off.  Kawa manual says, put the air box on.  What is right?

I personally think that it is ok to do the Vacuum sync without the air box on, but i am open to other suggestions.  In 650 forum, someone wrote 'we here do it with air box on'.  what does it mean?  the fact that a bunch of guys agree to do the same thing, because they are blindly following the manual, does not make it right.

I performed my throttle body synchronization with the air box off. I used the Carbtune Pro 4 and my bike seems okay so far.


Offline kris

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when he says in the youtube 'don't adjust this one' what does he mean?

Offline Nceb

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There's usually an adjustment screw that has white paint on it. I set the throttle body synchronization to match that cylinder. Think of it as your base reference point.

Offline kris

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*Originally Posted by Nceb [+]
There's usually an adjustment screw that has white paint on it. I set the throttle body synchronization to match that cylinder. Think of it as your base reference point.
'
some say that the 1st cylinder is the reference point but I don't know. anyway, I don't think my mechanic took it into consideration.  he just adjusted the 4 cylinders freely. i hope there is no issue.